Just two weeks ago, iconic Kentish Town boozer The Bull & Gate, built back in 1871, closed its doors for a much needed refurb. And now – just like that – it’s back.
Today we were lucky enough to be first through the door at midday for a quick nosey to see what’s changed in the elegant former gin palace.
First impressions: the Victorian grandeur of the main bar (main picture, above) is as striking as it always was but the vibe is now lighter and airier, the original wooden floorboards so polished you can see your face in them.
And the many nooks and crannies are cosier than ever. After all, this is the first spruce-up the pub has enjoyed since relaunching nine years ago.
In the last decade, since Young’s reopened it after extensive renovations in 2015, the airy dining room has been an atmospheric setting for a weekday lunch or lazy Sunday roast: now renamed the Lynskey room, after the Irish family that ran it for 34 years (read their story here), it still yields a wow factor but feels, well, a little less formal.
There are now comfy wood-panelled booths and banquette seating, as well as attention-grabbing new artworks – framed gig reviews and flyers (one listing Coldplay third on the bill) – referencing its previous hey day as major player in the 1980s, 1990s and noughties indie music scene. This room was, of course, once the gig venue itself.
This referencing to the Bull & Gate’s esteemed history continues upstairs – note the new bookshelves and majestic Bull artwork – in the cute Vinyl Room, where framed 7″ records line the walls of key bands who played here, including Blur, Madness, Libertines, Keane and Manic Street Preachers.
Stepping into revamped cocktail hangout the Boulogne Bar – named after the site’s original 18th century pub the Boulogne Gate – there’s now a chic bohemian feel with newly painted ceiling, neon signs, eclectic furniture and diverse artworks. These also playfully reference local culture, from the infamous Victorian piano industry to local street artists.
And, of course, most famously this bar starred in the video for Taylor Swift’s End Game (which we wrote about back in 2018 here).
And so to food. The menu, proudly displaying the pub’s new logo, has also had a reboot: all the popular classics remain, of course, from signature burgers to 28-day aged rump steak and posh fish and chips, but a new small plates menu is where foodies should head.
Here you’ll find courgette bhajis, ham hock and cheddar croquettes and pumpkin seed hummus with tomato salsa. On our visit we sampled a zesty Devon crab salad with kolrabi, creme fraiche dressing and watercress; tender roasted n’duja chicken thighs with a tangy preserved lemon pesto; and a beautifully summery dish of grilled peaches with heritage tomatoes, toasted almonds and mozzarella.
Better still, if you’re on a budget there are five lunchtime options at a good-value tenner or under – cider-battered haddock sarnie with tartare, or gammon and piccalilli, for example – as well as a sensational warm porky sausage roll. At just a fiver, this is instantly one of the best things you can eat at that price in the whole area.
As well as a comprehensive new wine list, all-new craft beer taps include the UK’s hippest brewery Deya, who are also the stars of the official relaunch on Friday 21st June (from 7pm), along with Campari, Pernod and local heroes Camden Town Brewery.
And if you’re a Euros 2024 fan, the pub is also the place to watch all the action unfold; with plenty of delicious dishes and drinks packages, there’s no better place in Kentish Town to soak up the game-day atmosphere.
This post is a partnership with Young’s Pubs. If you wish to reach thousands of North and East Londoners, please email stephen@londonbelongstomh.com
